Potosi

The next stop after Uyuni was the highest city in the world, Potosi. Sitting a whopping 4,090m above sea level Potosi was once one of the richest cities in the world. The reason for that is that Potosi lies beneath a mountain that was jam packed full of silver. And the Spanish plundered the mountain, and the people of Potosi, for all they were worth. Today, Potosi is a popular stop for travellers as although they are working mines you can go on a tour inside, see the work and experience the conditions for yourself.

I pondered whether to go on this tour for a while. Firstly, the mines are not really designed for people 6ft 5ins. Secondly, the idea of paying to go into a mine where people were actually working felt a bit weird. However, after speaking to other people who had taken the tour I decided this was something I had to see for myself. Millie opted out!

After getting the necessary safety gear (and acquiring an inappropriate new nickname) we were taken to a market to buy presents for the miners (coca leaves, water and booze are popular), the refinery where they extract the silver from the rock and then to the mine itself. Our guide (Shampoo) was an ex-miner himself and briefed us pretty heavily to begin with that this is a working mine and that you are a guest there. Basically, do what you’re told. That became blindingly obvious about 50m into the mine as 4 miners pulled a cart full of rocks along the tracks and I was pushed to the wall and shouted at to get out of the way.

Shampoo

The next two hours involved walking, crawling and sliding through the mine to different work areas, seeing the conditions the miners work in, giving them the presents and chatting to them. It was a humbling experience. Its impossible to put into words just how hot, loud, cramped and dusty some parts of the mine were and I was glad to (literally) see the light at the end of the tunnel.

As we were about to leave we also saw a team of miners who were probably no older than 14. We asked our guide about this and he said they were just working as it was the school holidays. I think everyone treated this with a pinch of salt and a few days later we saw a documentary, The Devil’s Miner, about a 14 year old boy who works in the mines that probably gets a bit closer to the truth. It’s not a cheery film, but well worth a watch.

I am really pleased I did the tour as it gave you a great appreciation of the reality of life in Potosi. The miners work 8 hour shifts, get paid an average of £300 a month (3x the average wage in Bolivia) and on average have a life expectancy of about 40.  We paid £10 for a two hour tour.

Mc